History, curry and spirituality at its best in Bo-Kaap

Published by in Cape Town, Travel on January 21st, 2012

The New Year has just come and gone and in Cape Town that means that Tweede Nuwejaar (Second New Year) has also just come and gone. Tweede Nuwejaar is when the people from Bo-Kaap don their shiny clothes, paint their faces, pick up their instruments and march around the streets of Cape Town to celebrate the new year. It’s a tradition dating back to the slave days of the early Cape settlement and is proudly upheld by Bo-Kaap residents every year.

As you might have guessed from the introduction, Bo-Kaap has its beginnings in slavery, when the Dutch imported slaves from all over Africa, Asia, Indonesia and Malaysia. The people became known as the Cape Malays and have since become famous for their marvellously unique culture and character, which are largely based on Muslim beliefs.

Bo-Kaap is in the centre of Cape Town, right at the foot of Signal Hill. You’ll know it when you see it because the houses are brightly coloured and tightly packed together. The streets are also cobbled instead of tarred. The people are extraordinarily friendly and always keen to welcome tourists to their neighbourhood.

One of the best ways to experience the culture and mingle with the people is to go to the monthly food and craft market. It takes place on the first Saturday of every month (as a rule) and is held at the Schotschekloof Civic Centre, Upper Wale Street. The highlight of the market is the food. Cape Malay food is world renowned for its spicy flavour, particularly its curries and samoosas (spicy savoury pastries).

Another not-to-be-missed stop is the Bo-Kaap Museum, which you’ll find at 71 Wale Street. It’s a small house that is nearly 250 years old. It currently represents a typically 19th century house of the area and features several permanent exhibitions, such as Pattern of Beauty, which contains artifacts and various art forms that depict the spiritual and religious history of Bo-Kaap; and New Year Carnival and the Alibama, which looks at the history of the Tweede Nuwejaar carnival.

Finally, you might want to visit some of the famous mosques in Bo-Kaap, such as Auwal Mosque, the first mosque ever built in South Africa. It’s at 34 Dorp Street. The Palm Tree Mosque is the second oldest mosque in Bo-Kaap and Jamia Mosque on Lower Chiappini Street is the first mosque in Bo-Kaap that was granted land specifically for a mosque site. It is the biggest mosque in the area.

Hire a car in Cape Town and drive to the Bo-Kaap by all means, but keep your walking shoes on because the best way to experience the neighbourhood is by foot.

(Image by neiljs, CC by 2.0, via Flickr)

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Experience living history at Kliptown, Soweto

Published by in Johannesburg, Travel on January 19th, 2012

If you know your South African history you’ll know that Kliptown, Soweto, is a particularly significant landmark in the fight against apartheid. It was in Kliptown, in 1955, that the Congress of the People gathered to write the Freedom Charter; a document of the hopes for a free and democratic South Africa where no one is oppressed and discrimination is unheard of. Forty-one years later, the Freedom Charter was used a basis for South Africa’s new constitution.

Kliptown is now a National Heritage Site and one of the most popular stops on just about all tours of Soweto.

In an effort to assign Kliptown the importance it deserves, in the early 2000s it was given a R375 million revamp, which included a four-star hotel, an open air museum and the dedication of the Walter Sisulu Square.

Walter Sisulu was an ANC stalwart and one of the most prominent figures of the struggle. He was denied that public adoration that continues to follow Nelson Mandela, but his role in securing freedom for the majority of the country’s population is by no means unrecognised.

On the edge of the square is the Kliptown Open Air Museum, which is also dedicated to Walter Sisulu. The museum consists of a multi-media blend that uses song, photos, newspaper clippings, narrations from some of the 3000 people who were at the meeting and songs to relate events leading up to and including the drafting of the Freedom Charter. The journey has been described as visual, but it’s also visceral in its depiction.

The museum is open seven days a week and entrance is free.

Around the square you’ll also find a mini-mall with shops and business premises, but the spirit of Soweto is felt most in the surrounding stalls for independent traders, which include some of the best local cuisine in the country.

In addition to all the touristy attractions, Kliptown has also been rejuvenated thanks to the Kliptown Youth Programme (KYP), which was started in 2007. The local founding group identified some basic needs to be addressed, primarily related to education, and went about righting these wrongs without waiting for someone else to fix the problems for them. Programmes run by the group include school fee support; tutoring for primary, secondary and high school students, as well as a tertiary education programme; assistance entering the job market; growing a library; food programme; and performing arts and athletics programmes.

Only 40 minutes from the CBD, you can take your rental car from Johannesburg and drive to Kliptown for one of the most unforgettable experiences of your life. Or, you can sign up for a guided tour of Soweto and experience the whole thing from a local perspective.

(Image by ign11, CC by 2.0, via Flickr)

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Mana Pools: Zimbabwe’s tourist gem

Published by in Travel on January 17th, 2012

If you want to experience all the majesty of the African bush, which includes rivers and lakes, you need to visit Mana Pools in northern Zimbabwe. Mana Pools National Park is on the Lower Zambezi Valley and contains magical pools, a floodplain and bush with all the wildlife that you would expect from such a rugged yet gently beautiful landscape. If you needed further motivation to visit the park, consider that its natural splendour has made it a celebrated World Heritage Site.

Given that it is on the famous Zambezi River and that it consists of four large pools, it’s not surprising that canoeing safaris are very popular. Safaris can be anything from 4 – 10 days long and are generally self-contained, which means that all your equipment is loaded on the canoes and there are no support vehicles and porters to do all the heavy lifting and carrying.

If you don’t fancy being on the river for that length of time, you can base yourself at one of the five comfortable, self-catering lodges. If you prefer something more rustic you can pitch a tent at any of the many camping sites (with facilities) or one of the two wild camping sites with no facilities and which are only accessible via 4×4 vehicles.

In addition to the river safaris, the park is ideally suited to walking. There is plenty of shade provided by the tree canopies for strolls around the pools, as well as guided walking safaris, which are highly recommended. In fact, much of the park is only accessible via foot, so pack your most comfortable walking shoes.

All of this walking doesn’t mean that the park is without big game. There are plenty of elephants, which you are likely to see as the animals come to the pools and river terraces to drink and eat Albida fruit. Hippos, of course, abound in the river, as do crocodiles. But don’t worry your guide will keep you safe. There are buffalo, lions, leopards, cheetah and black rhino; buck such as sable, kudu and eland; baboons and monkeys; zebra; warthog; hyena; over 450 bird species; and no end of fish.

Time your holiday carefully to suit your tastes. For example, canoeing is available year-round, but you’ll have more luck spotting game during September and October, when it can get very hot. If you like to live dangerously with crocodiles, you should visit in winter: June – August. If you don’t like very hot temperatures then you should visit in autumn and winter: March – August.

Bear in mind that in the past cars have only been allowed to drive in the park during the dry season, so find out what the rules are from your travel agent before you go. You don’t want to hire a car to Zimbabwe only to be turned back when you reach your destination.

(Image by Craigchipperfield, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons)

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Tranquility, serenity and musicality in Joburg’s Botanic Garden

Published by in Johannesburg, Travel on January 15th, 2012

Who’d have thought you could find peace and tranquility in Johannesburg? Well, you can; all you have to do is head on down to Emmarentia Dam in north Joburg and prepare yourself for some prime relaxation. Adding even more pleasure to the mix is the fact that Joburg’s Botanic Garden is right next door. The combined area, which is only 6km from the CBD, was voted the best passive recreation space in 2004 and continues to be frequented by thousands of city dwellers every weekend. In the evenings, dog walkers and lovers take advantage of the coolth and peace to commune with nature.

Water sports are, of course, a popular pastime on the dam, with a very active canoe club; yachting, windsurfing, fishing and swimming – although you’ll have to share the water with some very excited dogs – and even diving are available. Out of the water, you can jog, walk or cycle the many paths around the dam, while the garden is perfect for a lazy stroll. Picnics are very popular, especially during the summer. If you don’t feel like packing your own lunch you can always try the tea room, whose scones are rumoured to be out of this world.

The dams and the gardens are said to have been established by two farmers, Frans and Louw Geldenhuys, who contracted boers left homeless and jobless after the Anglo-Boer War to build the dams, which Louw named after his wife, Emmarentia.

In terms of plant life, the garden has an impressive rose garden, herbs (medicinal and culinary), over 2500 species of succulents and over 20 000 indigenous trees (or over 30 000, depending on your source).

The garden, which is often compared to Cape Town’s Kirstenbosch Botanical Garden, courts the comparison with its Summer Sunset Concerts. Kirstenbosch is well known for its Summer Sunset Concerts, which typically run from the end of November to the beginning of April and feature popular, as well as up-and-coming, South African and international artists. The Joburg Botanic Garden offers much the same, just significantly more inland.

If you don’t fancy swimming, canoeing, cycling, walking, listening to music, eating scones or even picnicking, then you can just sit on a bench and watch the ducks and geese and the world at large go by.

The best way to get to the Emmarentia Dam and Botanic Garden is to drive, which can be difficult if you’ve flown in for a holiday. The solution is simple, rent a car in Johannesburg and set your GPS for north.

(Image by NJR ZA (Own work) [CC-BY-SA-3.0 or GFDL], via Wikimedia Commons)

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Money, glitz and glamour in Sandton

Published by in Johannesburg, Travel on January 13th, 2012

Sandton is one of the most prestigious suburbs in South Africa, let alone Johannesburg. It’s more than an opulent residential and designer shopping Mecca, however, as this section of northern Joburg is also one of the most important (if not the most important) financial and business districts in South Africa. It is here where you’ll find the Johannesburg Stock Exchange (JSE) which is, admittedly, not high up on tourists’ agenda, but is a point of interest.

It’s also interesting to note that Sandton’s reputation for wealth is not new; it’s been home to the city’s rich and famous since Joburg first rose up out of dust of the gold rush. It was known as the mink and manure district. The only difference now is that the stink of manure from the well-kept horses and carriages has given way to the stink of diesel fumes from suburban SUVs.

Combining money and the high fashion are two of Joburg’s most popular tourist attractions: Sandton City and Nelson Mandela Square.

Sandton City has long been known as the premiere shopping destination in South Africa. Its reputation beats anything from Cape Town into a cocked hat. You’ll find nearly 300 designer stores and restaurants within its vast interior and should all that shopping leave you exhausted you can simply go right next door and check into the five-star Sandton Hotel. As an extra bonus, the centre is a short walk from the Sandton Gautrain Station, so after you’ve dined finely and shopped mightily you can get to the airport speedily.

A quick fun fact: did you know that Sandton City narrowly escaped being called Knoppieslaagte City Shopping Centre? With a name like that, one seriously doubts that it would have attracted the likes of Jenni Button, Hugo Boss and Tanzanite International to rent floor space.

Nelson Mandela Square is right next to Sandton City and is where you’ll find outstanding al fresco and indoor restaurants, as well as even more four- and five-star hotels. It used to be called Sandton Square but when a 6m bronze statue of Nelson Mandela was unveiled the name was changed. It shows the iconic figure doing his iconic Madiba Jive. Unfortunately, it looks as though he’s over-indulged over the holiday season and is hiding mince pies in his cheeks. It’s not a very good likeness, but as South Africans are proud of anything to do with the great man, it will certainly do.

Also within spitting distance of the shopping centre and the square is the Sandton Convention Centre, which hosts some of the biggest international events and shows that come to South Africa’s shores. The centre can host several large scale events, conferences and shows at the same time with 13 special meeting rooms, a pavilion which can seat 4500 guests and a ballroom which can seat 2000 guests. There are two main exhibition levels and the total space occupies 12 whopping great big storeys.

Sandton is not a suburb that does things in half measures; when it decides to go large, it goes very large indeed. This means that if you’re not content to whiz about on the Gautrain, you should find the biggest rental car in Johannesburg and cruise along Sandton with the other Jeeps, Land Rovers and Ford Explorers.

(Image by Marc_Smith, CC by 2.0, via Flickr)

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A diamond mining museum in Cape Town?

Published by in Cape Town, Travel on January 11th, 2012

What don’t you associate with Cape Town? Mining, right? Not gold, not diamond and certainly not coal. Perhaps it would surprise you to know that several mining enterprises have began (and quickly ended) in the beautiful south. Most of the mining has been for rock (granite and limestone) and minerals (manganese and tin). Some people thought they’d find heaps of gold and silver but there simply isn’t enough to make any ventures worthwhile. Thankfully. Nevertheless, despite this dearth in mining history, the city recently opened the Cape Town Diamond Museum, said to be the first such museum to ‘pay homage to the extraordinary story of the South African diamond industry’.

It seems rather curious to have such a diamond mining museum in Cape Town when Kimberley is generally considered the home of diamond mining in South Africa. After all, the Big Hole is there, along with its underground tour and Old Town, in which one can get a feel for what life was like during the big rush. So, one can’t help thinking that Kimberley should contest Cape Town’s allegation about it being the first museum to pay homage, etc.

The museum is in the Clock Tower precinct of the Waterfront, which is itself almost plagued by attractions.

Perhaps what sets Cape Town’s museum apart from anything in Kimberley is the fact that it doesn’t just focus on the past, it also looks at the present and takes a broader view of South Africa’s diamond industry and its role in the growth of the global diamond market.

Commenting on the museum opening, Mariette Du Toit-Helmbold, CEO of Cape Town Tourism, said, “The Diamond Museum is an exciting addition to Cape Town’s diversity of attractions – telling the stories of our city and country and the journeys that shaped our history. The Diamond Museum will give visitors and citizens a first-hand experience of South Africa’s significant contribution to the international diamond industry.”

Once again, Kimberley, with its Old Town, underground tours and the like, could contest that statement, but the nice thing about South Africa is that it is possible to get an incredibly comprehensive experience of just about anything. For instance, you can visit the Cape Town Diamond Museum and see replicas of all the famous diamonds (from South Africa and abroad) and pay homage, etc. and then you can hire a car and travel from Cape Town to Kimberley (it’s about a nine hour drive) to see the real thing.

The drive is long but the Karoo landscape is worth it and you can always stop at the tiny little towns on the way to see what inner South Africa is all about.

(Image by Swamibu (flickr), CC-BY-2.0, via Wikimedia Commons)

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Hermanus wine route re-launched

Published by in Cape Town, Travel on January 9th, 2012

What do you know about Hermanus? You probably know about its Whale Festival, which takes place every year towards the end of September. Perhaps you now that its property is very much in demand and that many of the country’s rich and famous like to play there. But did you know that it’s also part of the Cape Peninsula’s celebrated wine route?

Chances are fairly good that you didn’t have a clue about Hermanus’s wine credentials, but you needn’t feel bad about it as you’re in good company. In an effort to create more public awareness and leverage another tourism avenue, the Hermanus Wine Route, R320, is being re-launched.

The route follows a particularly scenic part of the countryside aptly named the Hemel-en-Aarde area, which means Heaven on Earth. According to the new Hermanus Wine Route website, the Hemel-en-Aarde region comprises three wine wards: Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Vallue and Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge. The names may be lacking in creativity, but when you’re onto a good thing, why change it?

The region specialises in white wines, especially Pinot noirs, Chardonnays and Sauvignon blancs, but, according to an article on iafrica.com, a special red blend called R320 (clearly playing to their strength, which lies in obvious naming conventions) will go on sale as part of the re-launch. Sales from R320 will go towards a local charity that provides education assistance to pupils in the area.

Not only are the wineries along the wine route committed to community upliftment, but they are also environmentally minded. Most of the wineries belong to the Biodiversity and Wine Initiative (BWI) and the Integrated Production of Wine (IPW), and also offer the Integrity and Sustainability Seal, which is a South African Wine and Spirit Board guarantee of sustainable business practices.

Don’t forget that Hermanus also offers a range of other attractions, including the ever popular (if controversial) shark cage diving, so you can hang out with some great whites, scuba diving, fishing in the lagoon, hiking and bicycle tours. Art lovers will enjoy several galleries, such as the Old Harbour Gallery, while antique lovers will find no end of treasures. Curios are ever present and boutiques offer vintage and modern fashions. You might also want to pop into Sansa Space Science, which monitors space weather and solar magnetic activity.

Hermanus is about a two-hour drive from Cape Town, which means that if you flew into the mother city, you’ll want to hire a car in Cape Town and drive along the lovely scenic road to Hermanus and all its delights.

(Image from Hermanus Wine Route website)

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It’s a whole other world in the Vumba Mountains

Published by in Travel on January 9th, 2012

Take a trip to another dimension and visit the Vumba Mountains on the border between Zimbabwe and Mozambique. The mountains are approximately 25km from Mutare, which makes a good base from which to explore the local fauna, flora and magical forests. The mountains are part of the Eastern Highland chain and the varied attractions, which spread across the border, make hiring a car for some Zimbabwe-Mozambique cross-boarder action an attractive possibility. In addition to the other worldliness of the forests and grass plains, you can enjoy all the comforts of western living, including world-class casinos, golf courses and luxury accommodation.

Most people visit the region for the nature. You won’t find large predators and rumbling elephants, but you will find samango monkeys as they leap silently through the trees. If you keep your eyes peeled you’ll see Marshall’s Dwarf Chameleon, which reaches a maximum of five tiny centimeters. The little creature is found only in the Eastern Highlands on the Zimbabwean border. Closer to the ground but no less difficult to spot is the blue duiker, a small antelope that you’ll find in many countries in Africa and which makes the Eastern Highlands its home in Zimbabwe.

Vumba-nature.com refers to two of the best nature walks in the Vumba Mountains: the walk through the Bunga Forest and the walk to Chinyakwaremba.

Bunga Forest is a rainforest within the National Botanical Reserve. It’s full of orchids, ferns, Msasa trees and cabbage trees. If you go all the way to Bunga Views, you’ll be treated to sheer cliffs and woodlands.

Chinyakwaremba is one of Vumba’s peaks and is within a private nature sanctuary. The path up is gentle and suited to people of all ages and fitness levels. The view is, if not exactly breath taking, at least worth the walk. If you want a more challenging climb you should try Castle Beacon, which, at 1911m, is Vumba’s highest peak.

If plants are your thing you should definitely make time for the Botanical Gardens within the mountains. The picturesque setting allows for hours of walking along wooden bridges and under heavily wooded trees. You can also picnic along streams, on the banks of a lake and relax as you take in the orchids, cycads, aloes, fuchsias, hydrangeas and assorted colours and aromas.

Mutare is Zimbabwe’s fourth biggest city, but in terms of surrounding nature and natural attractions, it is one of the wealthiest. If you’re heading to Zimbabwe and want a blend of comfort and wildlife, you could do much worse than Mutare and the Vumba Mountains.

Image by NH53, CC by 2.0, via Flickr)

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Drive Cape Town’s South Peninsula

Published by in Cape Town, Travel on December 21st, 2011

If you’re in Cape Town this December (or any time, really) you might want to avoid the crowds at Table Mountain and the Waterfront, hire a car and take a leisurely drive down the coast. Find your way to the M3 south and keep going until you see signs for Muizenberg. Your journey is about to begin.

Muizenberg

This little townlet is said to be the birthplace of surfing in South Africa. Every day of the year, no matter what the weather, surfers gather in search of the perfect wave. The beach is immense (it stretches all the way round to Gordon’s Bay on the other side of False Bay) and there are plenty of activities on the promenade. Kids can play mini-golf, there are supertubes for all ages and restaurants, coffee shops and quirky little stores galore.

St James

Be warned that currently Main Road from Muizenberg to Kalk Bay is under construction, so you may have to be patient on your drive. But it’s worth it. You’ll probably recognise St James when you see it, even if you’ve never been there before. Its brightly coloured beach huts and tidal pool feature on thousands of postcards.

Kalk Bay

The Cape’s nod to boho life, Kalk Bay is an eclectic mix of new and used boutiques, antiques, art galleries, restaurants and ice-cream shops. The harbour is a must-see, even if you simply to stand on the wall and watch the ocean.

Fish Hoek

Fish Hoek is a gem of a place. People come from all over the Cape to sit on its beautiful soft, white beach and swim in its warm(ish) water. Pay attention to the shark flags, however, as it is a high shark activity area. Don’t worry if the red flag is up because there is still a lot to do. There are three restaurants on the beach, well, two restaurants and a takeaway, with the best soft serve ice-cream in the world. There is also a kids’ play area. Just down the road is a seafood restaurant and slightly further on is an amazing Asian restaurant with, you guessed it, the best food in the world.

Simon’s Town

The oldest naval town in South Africa, Simon’s Town is full of museums, historical tours, a submarine tour, chartered boat trips, shark cage diving, scuba diving, fishing and eating opportunities. Jubilee Square contains a range of curios while the waterfront boasts a number of live music performances and shows.

Cape Point

Not the famed meeting of two oceans as it often said, but a perfect vantage point to see all sides of the bay. There are walks around the nature reserve, where you might stumble across an ostrich or two, some buck and almost definitely some baboons. There are many beaches and inlets for quiet swimming and picnics and a restaurant at the top of the point that serves world-class food. Take the funicular to the lighthouse and enjoy the view.

Scarborough

You’ll have to go over the mountain to reach Scarborough, one of the better preserved natural environments in the peninsula. It is small quiet and beautiful.

Kommetjie

At Kommetjie you can hang out at the beach and surf, dive, explore shipwrecks, fish or visit the lighthouse. Or you can explore by area by bike, take one of the walking trails or travel inland a bit until you reach Imhoff Farm, where you can ride camels, gander at reptiles in the snake park, visit the cheese shop, buy wine and even play paintball.

Noordhoek

Noordhoek is famous for its enormous beach, which is very popular for horse riding and dog walking. Pop into Noordhoek Farm Village and buy organic clothes, fruit and veg, get all your horse riding equipment, curios and African art, and, of course, eat until you burst.

Wend your way back home via Chapman’s Peak and Hout Bay or take Ou Kaapse Weg back to the M3.

(Image by Hilton1949 at en.wikipedia [CC-BY-SA-3.0 or GFDL], from Wikimedia Commons)

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Travelling to Zimbabwe’s Nyanga National Park

Published by in Travel on December 20th, 2011

When you think of Zimbabwean tourist attractions, what comes to mind? Do you think of Mutare?

Mutare is in eastern Zimbabwe about 270km from Harare, on the border with Mozambique. It’s characterised by lush vegetation and mountains, which, obviously, provide plenty of opportunities for mountain-related activities. If you’re on a cross-country road trip starting in South Africa, you can hire a car and drive to Zimbabwe. Alternatively, you can hire a car in Zimbabwe to drive around the interior.

One of the best places to start exploring Mutare is the Nyanga National Park, which contains Mount Nyangani, Zimbabwe’s highest peak (2592m). It’s not a strenuous climb, as in you won’t need subzero sleeping bags and miles of rope, but you will need to be relatively fit to manage the climb. Depending on your level of fitness it can take anywhere between one and three hours to reach the summit. According to Wikipedia, there are three main routes to the top:

  • The Tourist Path, which follows the upper Nyamuziwa River up the north side of the mountain.
  • The Mountain Club path, which approaches from the west until it joins the Tourist Path.
  • The Nyazengu trail, which approaches the mountain from the south west via to the Pungwe Drift. This route is said to provide the best views of the montane forest, which is on the mountain’s south east face.

If you’re feeling adventurous and you have mountain climbing experience you can try the north eastern ridge between the Nyama and Kairezi Rivers or Little Nyangani, which is on the eastern side of the mountain.

Within the park you’re likely to see plenty of buck, including kudu and klipspringer, as well as hyena, buffalo and leopard. Its conservation efforts concentrate primarily on the blue duiker, samango monkeys and Inyangani River Frog. There are plenty of rivers and dams, such as the Nyangombe, Mare and Kayirezi Rivers and the Udo, Mare and Rhodes Dams, where you can go boating and try your hand at fly-fishing. Another highlight is the Mutarazi Falls, the highest falls in Zimbabwe (762m) that drop into the Honde River Valley, which is known for its tea plantations.

In terms of accommodation, you can choose between rustic camping and luxury lodges and anything in between. There are self-catering lodges at Rhodes Dam and along the Pungwe River; camping sites on the Mare River and around the falls; and privately owned camps at Rhodes Fam.

Offroad vehicles are strongly recommended if you’re heading to the park. But if you haven’t hired a 4×4 you might want to consider keeping to the central and western areas as these are the most developed with the best roads. Note that some of the highlights, such as the Mutarazi Falls are all vehicle friendly.

(Image by Babakathy (Own work) [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons)

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